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When dogs are tracking a lost person, they walk in and out of the scent cone to actually stay on track. It occurred to me the other day that maybe getting off our path isn’t such a bad thing as long as we recognize it and adjust back in much as our dogs too. Instead of panicking, feeling bad/depressed, we can recognize that our emotions are speaking to us that something doesn’t smell right and we work on getting back on track. We know we are there when we feel great again.

Of course, much as dogs do when they smell a deer, raccoon, or poop, we have to be careful to not get distracted and go further off the path :) .

Enjoy your journey!

Sylvie Pleasant
K9 Solutions LLC
Certified Dog Trainer and Behavior Consultant
www.nck9solutions.com

My soul dog Kacey

My soul dog Kacey

We have many pivotal moments in life that direct our path. One of mine occurred at the SPCA where I volunteered for many years. I was at the front desk helping out when a mother walked in with her teenager and a mixed brown dog. The dog sat there quietly while the mother filled out the paperwork and the teenager sobbed on her shoulder. The dog had chewed one too many things. When they left, I asked the receptionist why she didn’t suggest a crate. She faced me so I could see straight into her tired eyes and before she could answer, I said “never mind, I get it.” That day, I resolved to do what shelters don’t have the resources to do. Educate owners to have well-mannered dogs before they end up at a shelter. I was already training dogs so I focused on educating myself more fervently in that field and eventually grew to a full time business. 

It is difficult to be grateful to have faced such circumstances but I am on path helping others thanks to that family. I hope that one dog at a time, I continue to make a difference so that families can enjoy a wonderful relationship with their dogs, be informed of resources, and enjoy the peace of commitment.

Sylvie Pleasant
K9 Solutions LLC
Certified Dog Trainer and Behavior Consultant
www.nck9solutions.com

If you are unable to fence in your yard and would like to teach your dog to stay within the perimeters of the yard, try these steps. Be patient. All dogs are different in their learning skills. Some breeds/dogs are never trustworthy off leash. This exercise should be coupled with a good Come command.
 
1. On a leash, once per day, walk the perimeter of your yard with your dog on the inside in heel position right next to you.
2. If your dog tries to go in front of you, just block her with your leg to keep her in (don’t kick her!).
3. After a week, as long as she is no longer trying to get around you, switch so that she is on the outside.
4. Anytime she walks toward the outside of the yard, correct her with a firm No!
5. Once she stops trying, give her more and more leash.
6. Then repeat with a long line until she quits trying to get out of the yard. The long line is your safety net and lets you know how well she is responding.
7. If all is well, walk around the yard and say no firmly if your dog attempts to leave the yard.
 
Sylvie Pleasant
Certified Dog Trainer
K9 Solutions LLC
www.nck9solutions.com

From my sitting spot in my kitchen overlooking my beautiful garden, I can briefly see my neighbors walking by on the street. One morning, I watched as one of my neighbors was walking her quite elderly Bassett Hound. She was using a flexi and as the Bassett walked slowly in a straight pattern (with his nose glued to the ground of course), his human walked in a zig zag so she could go at her own faster pace and get exercised.

I often get excuses from dog owners on why they can’t do certain tasks such as walking their dog properly: too hot, too cold, too tired, dog pulling, dog lunging or too excited, etc. All excuses with solutions.

I  marveled that this person had found such a simple solution to getting her exercise and still incorporate her elderly dog. And I no longer feel that flexis should be outlawed :) With proper caution, that is actually a good use for them.

Reasons for Digging

Some breeds such as terriers and terrier mixes have been bred for generations to dig.

Burying bones is a strong impulse for many dogs.

Dogs will dig when they are hot. The cool earth feels good.

Some dogs mimic their owners who are gardening.

Going after moles, voles, etc.

Boredom, frustration, and loneliness.

Recommendations

1.       Burying bones: Do not give your dog bones outside or confine him to an enclosed area.

2.       When hot: Get a kiddy pool or hose him off. Be sure he has shade always no matter where the sun falls.

3.       Mimicking: Leave him in house while you are gardening.

4.       For bored and frustrated dogs, provide plenty of exercise and obedience training. More attention and time with the “pack” is crucial in owning a healthy, stable pet. Make him a part of the family and give him a function.

5.       Get rid of the moles by getting rid of the grubs they feed on. Lowes or Home Depot can help you.

6.       Bury poop into the dugged hole with a thin layer of dirt covering it.

7.       Digging is natural, pleasurable, and wonderful exercise for dogs. Why not compromise and provide them with their own area to dig where holes are acceptable? You can allow your dog to dig under the deck or stairs or fence off his own area. When he digs out of his area, say “no dig” and take him to his own area, get him digging by showing him yourself (it is easiest to get him digging where the ground is soft or a hole is already started), and praise a lot when he does.

Sylvie Pleasant
Certified Dog Trainer
K9 Solutions LLC

What I love about this email from one of our clients is a couple of things.

We work often with folks who rescue dogs with a neglect or abuse background. Dogs are in the moment. They have the won

Handsome Max

Handsome Max

derful ability, unlike us, to not fester in the past. They do have memory which comes back at the  associated sight of a human, environment, dog,  or object such as a broom. Otherwise, they have the ability to be very happy in spite of their past. Owners, on the other hand, stay stuck in their past and end up overcompensating by being rotten leaders. The dog then suffers in a different way. These dogs, more than ever, need to feel the secureness and safety of a great leader watching over them.

The other part that I love is this owner’s willingness and persistance. Once she got it, she stuck to it. Although there are parts of the past that she already misses, she is keeping her eye on the goal–to have a secure, relaxed, happy canine companion.

This is a dog whose owner wanted to put a muzzle on for the consult because of his aggression.

From Pat, first email:

Donnie, from Sylvie’s company came over Saturday evening.  Apparently, because I felt so bad about Comet’s dognapping, I did all the wrong things when he was returned.  I bent over backwards to let him have his way to compensate for what happened to him.  When what I needed to do was let him know I was in charge.  I’m practicing, but it’s hard work!  But within a half hour, Donnie had Comet let him in the front door, come into the house and sit and talk to me without getting aggressive or overly excited.  Comet even laid down at my feet and was completely relaxed while Donnie and I talked about what I needed to do in handling him.

I live in a cul-de-sac which was great for training him to listen to me.  But, my neighbor across the way got a good laugh out of Comet and I walking in circles on Saturday night.  Last night I saw that he was on his porch, so I tried some of the techniques Donnie taught me and walked over there with Comet.  Comet was perfectly behaved.  He sat and stood quietly behind me while we talked.  Then when I said “it’s time to go home” he jumped up and was ready to go.  Unfortunately, his habit is to drag me home.  So my neighbor got a real chuckle as it took me at least 10 minutes to get across the cul-de-sac.  But, I prevailed, got into the door before him and he seems so much calmer that I can ever remember him.  The good news, is that he seems much more content; the bad news is that I probably won’t have as many funny Comet stories as I become the leader.

Pat Graleski

P.S.

Sylvie,  Thanks so much for sending Donnie.  He worked miracles.  I just hope I can keep up the good work.  It’s really hard work for someone who is used to spoiling their pet to take over and be in charge.  I promise I will do my best.  I’ll let you know when Comet is thoroughly cured and can be around people without worrying about him.

Second email:

I took Comet out to visit with the neighbors (that he used to attack) last night and they couldn’t get over the change.  Then some guy was going around our cul-de-sac ringing doorbells trying to sell something.  We were still in front of the neighbors house, Comet started to bark and lunged towards the guy.  I just turned around and said something like “it’s ok, now stop and lay down.” And he stopped.

I think it will be awhile before he stops trying to go his own way, but when he barks out the window at people in the cul-de-sac, I go into the room look out the window, tell him its o.k. then send him into the living room to lay down.  Before, he would keep going back to the window and keep barking no matter what I did or said.  Before when someone came to the door or near the house, after they left he would run around the house to every door and window as if looking for them.  Now, I just say it’s o.k. and lay down and he just lays down and  seems completely relaxed and not agitated.

In the evenings, he used to stay in the bedroom near the front window.  I thought that was just because I used to keep him in there with the door closed and he was used to that room the most.  Now, I realize that he was keeping the bad men out, because he now lays in the living room next to the arm of the couch, or if it’s hot, on the wood floor I the living room as opposed to in the foyer by the front door.  He even waits for me to tell him it’s o.k. to eat his dinner.

I’ll miss some of his neurotic behavior because it did make me laugh and provided good stories for work.  But, he seems so much happier, relaxed and content.  I hope he will get so that I can trust that he won’t bite anyone again.  But, so far so good.  He has changed a lot, even the neighbors have commented on it.

Pat Graleski

Thank you Pat! For listening and working with your buddy. Keep up the good work and relationship.
Sylvie Pleasant
K9 Solutions LLC
www.nck9solutions.com

Wait Command

Wait Command

This command could save your dog’s life by keeping them from lunging out of cars and doors unsafely.

It will also help you to keep them off the door while you allow guests in. You can keep them out of any room such as kitchen while cooking/eating, dining room during a party, guest room, kids room with toys everywhere, etc.

Finally, it’s a great leadership and self-control exercise.

Wait means “not another paw forward.” It’s okay if they walk off into the other parts of the house or car. They just can’t cross the boundary you have put into place.

 

1. At a doorway such as bedroom or kitchen doorway, face your dog and say Wait.

2. Walk backwards confidently into the room about 5-10 steps. Even less if this is very difficult for your dog.

3. Go back to your dog, praise him quietly as you walk by, and go about your business.

4. If your dog walks in, shoot back to him quickly and back him up into place with your legs, not hands. Do not knee him or hurt him. Just simply back him up and repeat again.

5. Practice on the fly throughout the day until you can cross the room and come back, then add longer times before you come back.

6. Practice at stairway, all doorways, garage doors, and any door that are not open to escaping.

7. Once your dog understands that Wait means “not another paw forward” then practice with the front door. Use a leash to step on or block the front porch if you are feeling insecure.

Sylvie Pleasant
Certified Dog Trainer and Behavior Consultant
www.nck9solutions.com

The family with young children greet me enthusiastically. They have a lovely Spaniel mix whose biggest issue is jumping on the kids. I already know that this is an outdoor dog, and I am hoping that the training will lead to an indoor dog.

I explain the concept of the clicker. The click catches the dog doing the behavior we want and he gets a treat immediately after the click. Then we take turns playing the game with all the humans so they can get a feel of what it’s like being the dog trying to figure out how to get that clicker to click and being the human marking the behavior at the right times.

The kids love the game and are having fun. We proceed outdoors where I start with clicking the dog everything he sits and ignoring him when he jumps on me. He catches on quickly and the family is impressed. Each family member takes a turn. We also work on each child taking a few enthusiastic steps then stopping and waiting for a sit. I explain that as the dog gets better, they can run further and further without the dog jumping.

We then play the Come Game where the dog is called in turn by each family member, sits, and received a treat. Nice controlled game that teaches the dog to come up instead of jumping.

The family is incredibly impressed by their dog’s improvement. As we wrap up, I hear the father tell his daughter, “It looks like we don’t have to give her up after all.” I am stunned as I had no idea that I was on a deadline.

One never knows what is happening in the background—do your best for each being you encounter. You never know what impact you will have. And I think that maybe they will consider bringing the dog indoors as he gets more  self-control  . . .

This command is useful for dogs who are shy of obects, people, or dogs.

1. Place a treat in your right hand (left if you have left-handed).

2. Happily point and tap a non-scary object with your hand that contains the treat. Non-scary objects might include chairs, safe plants, bowls, couch, walls, doors, etc.

3. As soon as the dog touches your hand or object, say “Say Hi” and pop the treat in his mouth.

4. Do about 10 non-scary objects for several days until the dog obviously looks forward to coming over to nose the object and get a treat.

5. Repeat with objects that a bit scarier such as the vacuum cleaner, trash cans, yard decorations, whatever makes the dog a bit more nervous.

6. Repeat with people that the dog knows then progress to people that he is a bit nervous with.

7. Finally, as long as the dog is progressing nicely, use it for the most scary objects or people. You can use the verbal words to help with dog introductions since, by now, the dog should hear the words as a pleasurable experience but do not use treats.

1. Socialize your shy dog at his level of comfort. Don’t overdo it. Start low-key and increase stimulations as he improves.

2. Don’t hover over shy dogs or allow other humans to do so. The direct eye contact and body language is very scary to shy dog. Bend down at the knees. Avert eye contact initially until the dog feels more secure.

3. Allow the dog to come up to humans rather than force the interaction. Praise softly whenever your shy dog makes initiation but don’t overdo the eye contact.

4. Act casual when your dog is worried. Your upright body language and calm facial expression and mannerism will let your dog know that you are not worried so he can work on calming down.

5. If your shy dog panics, calmly walk her away from the situation.

6. Teach your dog the “Say Hi” command (see next week’s blog).

7. If you have a calm dog or can work with a friend’s calm dog, shy dogs will most often learn by watching other dogs being friendly to humans or scary objects and thus feel braver. Group classes can be very effective for this as well.

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